These days, it can feel like you need a college degree to shop for a skincare routine. The sheer number of different products available can be overwhelming. You may hear terms like cleanser, toner, exfoliant, serum, ampoule, essence, and moisturizer thrown around, without having any idea of the differences between them. Serums and ampoules in particular are hard to tell apart, even for people with dedicated skincare knowledge. Learning the difference will help you save money and better address your skin concerns.
Understanding serums
Serums are concentrated, lightweight formulas intended for use after cleanser and exfoliant but before moisturizer. They can be used to target and treat skin problems like dryness, dullness, or wrinkles over long periods of time. The most popular serums are formulated with vitamin C, niacinamide, retinol, vitamin E, and glycolic acid.
When should I use them?
Different serums should be used at different points and times in your skincare routine depending on your specific needs. Let's say you want to treat wrinkles and reduce aging. You can achieve this with sunscreen under your foundation and an under-eye cream that adds moisture and plumps your skin. By laying down a hydrating serum first, your skin can take in that moisture better, and potentially stay smooth for longer.
Understanding ampoules
Ampoule is the word for the small glass vials used to preserve chemical samples. In skincare, ampoules refer not just to the container but to the small amounts of concentrated active ingredients in the vial.
When do I use them?
Because of their high concentration of actives, ampoules are recommended if you want to address an immediate skin concern within a tighter time frame. For example, resolving skin dehydration during a trip to an arid region, reducing hyperpigmentation left over from a pimple, or lessening fine lines in the days leading up to a big event are all beneficiaries.
You may also incorporate ampoules into your skincare regimen in certain seasons. Winter in some geographic regions causes dryness and dullness, so the short-term use of hyaluronic acid to boost hydration, or vitamin C for brightening, may be appropriate. Generally, ampoules are most effective as a supplementary concentrated treatment applied after cleansing and before moisturizing.
Comparing ampoules and serums
When you want to purchase new products for your skincare routine, make sure to consider your timeline and goals.
Key differences
The main difference between a serum and an ampoule is in the products' concentration, and, therefore, the timeline for their use. Ampoules have a higher concentration of ingredients than serums and tend to irritate the skin when used too frequently; they are for short-term use only. Serums are softer on your skin and can be used long-term to yield effects.
Let's say you have dry skin. In order to address dryness, you begin using a hyaluronic acid hydrating serum in your daily skincare. You apply this serum once in the morning and once at night every day to keep your skin hydrated. A month from now, you're going on vacation to a place with a dry climate for a week. You can apply an ampoule the night before you leave, one in the middle of the week, and one right at the end to counter the effects of the climate and boost what is already in your daily routine.
Key similarities
The consistency of both products is light and meant to be used in small drops. Both are packed with actives and used in a small amount for the same skin concerns. The actives in question can include antioxidants, moisturizers, and peptides.
Going back to our dry skin example, the active ingredient in both your daily serum and your ampoule may be hyaluronic acid. However, the concentration of that ingredient typically will be different — a serum may have a concentration of between 0.1 and 1.5%, while an ampoule can have closer to 2%.
Categories and regularity of treatment
The recommended regularity and frequency of your product use varies based on the needs of your skin. For serums, there are four general categories:
- Hydrating (hyaluronic acid or niacinamide). Twice daily as added moisturizers, morning and night, to help maintain moisture balance.
- Antioxidant (vitamin C, green tea). Once in the morning; antioxidants may help protect against UV damage and free radicals.
- Retinol. 2–3 times per week in evenings, to minimize discoloration and enhance cellular turnover.
- Peptide. Twice daily to support skin repair and elasticity.
Ampoules fall into the same categories, but their recommended application is entirely dependent on the issue you're addressing. Read the instructions on the product carefully before use.
Incorporating these products into a routine: practical steps
Understanding the general differences between serums and ampoules can be great in theory but still leave you uncertain of how to proceed in practice. To know whether you need to start using these products in your skincare routine, it's important to understand your skin type, personal skincare concerns, and which products are best applied together.
Identifying your skin type and concerns
Different skin types will exhibit different characteristics; a serum that hydrates may be good for dryness, but not for acne. To determine your type, cleanse your face with a gentle cleanser, wait an hour, and observe. If the skin appears shiny — it's oily; if it feels tight and flaky — it's dry; if it shows varying characteristics in different areas — it's combination; and if it's balanced without excessive sebum or dryness — it's normal.
Picking a serum or ampoule type
The active ingredients to look for in your product will be different depending on what issue you're hoping to address. Vitamin C serum may be a great choice for addressing dullness; it's recommended for reversing sun damage, lightening dark spots, and stimulating the production of collagen, which helps make the skin plump and smooth.
Glycolic acid, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, or vitamin E are the gentle ingredients to look for if your skin is dry and flakey. Retinol is recommended for managing acne and reducing hyperpigmentation and scarring on the skin.
Layering skincare products
Always layer your skincare correctly. Cleansing comes first, exfoliants and essences come next to prepare your skin for treatment, then your serum. Apply the lightest, water-based serums first as they absorb quickly, followed by oil-based serums. Use serums or ampoules with active ingredients (e.g., vitamin C, retinol) after hydrating serums. Finally, seal the effects of the products with an emollient or moisturizer.
Customizing your routine
You can customize your product rotation based on what skin concerns you are addressing. For instance, deep hydrators are recommended for nighttime, while an antioxidant serum that protects against free radical exposure is recommended for the morning. Make sure to tailor your routine to your skin's needs.
Expert tips and recommendations
It may feel necessary to stock up on as many products as possible to have the healthiest possible skin, but experts recommend that less is more.
According to the American Academy of Dermatology, you should keep your routine simple and avoid using lots of anti-aging products as they can irritate and damage your skin. Choose products that address basic skin health as well as your most urgent skincare concerns.
Product recommendations
Finding a product that works for you and doesn't break the bank can be overwhelming. Search based on category — hydrating, anti-aging, peptide, or antioxidant — and make sure you select products that are dermatologist-approved.
Make sure you choose products based on your unique skin type and avoid overuse of serums and ampoules, as they can irritate your skin if used too much. It's advisable to consult a dermatologist to evaluate your skincare needs and desired results.
FAQ
Can I use ampoules and serums together?
Yes, you can layer serums and ampoules together. This is best described as 'boosting' your regular routine with the addition of an ampoule. Be careful not to layer too many different types together, as their active ingredients can become irritating when overused or interfere with each other's effects. Make sure you do your research on which ingredients are appropriate to layer.
How long does it take to see results?
Serums may yield results over the course of weeks or months, while ampoules are more concentrated and may yield results in days or weeks. Sometimes, you can introduce a new product and see no results at all; the concentration of ingredient, and type of ingredient, may not be the right one for your skin concerns. Always consult a professional and be prepared to experiment a little when you introduce new products to your routine.
Are ampoules suitable for sensitive skin?
It depends on the ampoule. In general, ampoules can trigger reactions in sensitive skin because of their concentration of active ingredients and fast absorption. Always consult with a dermatologist before starting a new product if you have known skin sensitivity.
How often should I use serums in my routine?
It depends on the serum; some are meant for daily use, while others should only be used a few times a week. Gentler products like hydrating serums can be used as often as twice a day, while more aggressive products like retinol should be limited to 2–3 times a week.
-
Serums are concentrated, lightweight formulas intended for use after cleanser and exfoliant but before moisturizer. They can be used to target similar skin problems over long periods of time.
-
Ampoules have higher concentrations of ingredients that address specific concerns — for example, hydration or wrinkle reduction — and absorb into the skin faster. Longer-term use can cause irritation.
-
The recommended regularity and frequency of your product use varies based on the needs of your skin. The four common categories of serums and ampoules are hydrating, antioxidant, retinol, and peptide.
-
A simple skincare routine is best. Experts recommend that you choose products based on your unique skin type and needs and avoid overuse of serums and ampoules, as they can irritate your skin if used too much.
3 resources
- Harvard Health Publishing. Skin serum: what it can and can't do.
- International Journal of Cosmetic Science. Effectiveness of a formulation containing peptides and vitamin C in treating signs of facial ageing: three clinical studies.
- American Academy of Dermatology. Skincare tips dermatologists use.
Your email will not be published. All fields are required.